Krak des Chevaliers, the most famous Crusader castle in the world, stands about 60 kilometres west of Homs, and it is the single strongest reason to put the city on a Syrian itinerary. Homs itself lies in the heart of Syria on the Orontes, the country’s third largest city and the junction between the coast and the interior, the north and the south. It was known in antiquity as Emesa, it produced Roman emperors, and today it is known for an unusual mix of ruins, shrines and country cooking, and for a sense of humour that has made its people the subject of jokes across the Levant. Here is what Homs is famous for.
Krak des Chevaliers
About 60 kilometres west of Homs stands Krak des Chevaliers, the most famous Crusader castle in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Knights Hospitaller built it in the twelfth century on top of a hill 650 metres high. It is made up of two concentric rings of walls with 13 towers, a knights’ hall, a chapel, and stables with room for hundreds of horses. Sultan al-Zahir Baybars took it back in 1271, and the castle is still in excellent condition, which makes it one of the finest things to visit anywhere in Syria.
The Mosque of Khalid ibn al-Walid
The Mosque of Khalid ibn al-Walid is the best known landmark inside Homs itself, and it holds the tomb of the companion Khalid ibn al-Walid, who died in Homs in 642 AD. The present mosque was built in the Ottoman style in the early twentieth century, and stands out for its nine domes, its black and white banded ablaq stone and its two slender minarets. It has been through extensive restoration after being damaged.
Palmyra: Bride of the Desert
The ancient city of Palmyra belongs administratively to Homs governorate, and is one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. It is known for its long colonnaded street, the Temple of Bel, the triumphal arch, the Roman theatre and the tower tombs, and for the story of its queen Zenobia, who defied Rome. Despite the destruction it has suffered, Palmyra is still a fundamental stop for anyone who cares about history, along with the castle of Fakhr al-Din al-Maani that looks down on it from the hill.
The Church of Our Lady of the Holy Belt
The Church of Our Lady of the Holy Belt is among the oldest churches in the world, with foundations going back to 59 AD, and it is the seat of the Syriac Orthodox archdiocese in Homs. It is known for holding the belt of the Virgin Mary, found in 1953 inside a jar in the altar, and major religious celebrations are held there every year.
The Covered Souk and Old Homs
The covered souk in old Homs takes in the goldsmiths’ souk, the silk souk, the women’s souk, Khan al-Amir and Hammam al-Basha, and around it spread the old quarters of the city: Bab al-Dreib, Bab Hud, Bab al-Sibaa, al-Hamidiyah and Bustan al-Diwan, known for houses built from the black basalt stone that is particular to Homs.
The Food and Sweets Homs Is Famous For
- Homs cheese halawa: Homs is known for soft cheese halawa with clotted cream, sold in the shops of al-Hamidiyah Street and al-Dablan Street.
- Znoud and baklava: znoud al-sitt is one of the best known sweets of Homs.
- Homs kibbeh: particularly kibbeh saj and kibbeh siniyeh.
- Homs potatoes: the plate of fried potatoes with coriander and garlic that carries the city’s name all over Syria.
- Homs fuul and hummus: the best fuul breakfast in Syria is said to be served in Homs.
- Homs cheese: one of the well known white cheeses.
Homs Humour and the Wednesday
Across the Levant the people of Homs are associated with jokes and quick wit, and the saying goes that the people of Homs go mad on Wednesday. The story behind it is a folk tale about the city’s inhabitants feigning madness one Wednesday to save the city from an invading army, and it has turned into an annual celebration, the Homs Wednesday festival, at which people put on odd costumes and trade jokes.
Nature Around Homs
Homs is known for having the mildest climate of the inland cities, thanks to the Homs Gap, the opening in the hills that lets the Mediterranean breeze through. Around it lie Lake Qattinah (the Lake of Homs), whose dam was built in Roman times, the green Valley of the Christians with its dozens of villages and monasteries such as Saint George’s Monastery at al-Humayra, and the hill town of Masyaf, known for its Ismaili castle. Several of these turn up again in our guide to natural places in Syria.
Tips for Visiting Homs
- Use Homs as a base for day trips to Krak des Chevaliers, the Valley of the Christians and Palmyra.
- Visit the Mosque of Khalid ibn al-Walid and the Church of Our Lady of the Holy Belt on the same day; the distance between them is short.
- Do not leave without tasting cheese halawa on al-Hamidiyah Street.
Frequently Asked Questions About Homs
What is Homs famous for?
Homs is famous for the Mosque of Khalid ibn al-Walid, Krak des Chevaliers, Palmyra, the Church of Our Lady of the Holy Belt, cheese halawa and the Homs sense of humour.
Why is Homs called the city of black stone?
Because most of its old buildings are built from the black basalt stone found in the volcanic ground around it.
